London Fashion Week, Daniel Lee’s first show at Burberry. PHOTO

The wait for the Daniel Lee’s first fashion show in the role again Burberry creative director (the appointment took place last September together with the announcement of Riccardo Tisci’s resignation) was repaid by one eccentric and contemporary collectionmanifesto of the new course of the British fashion house which now has two Englishmen at the helm: the stylist and the new CEO, Jonathan Akeroyd

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Play new music from Burberry – literally – with the models parading on the trip hop and ambient sound of Burial, the British musician who narrates garments with the language of sound chromatically sophisticated. The palette is seductive: forest green, ocher yellow, electric violet. References to the Burberry world are everywhere

Like any creative director called upon to take charge of a brand steeped in tradition and culture, Daniel Lee too had to dedicate the first five months at Burberry to the heritage study of the long-lived fashion house which, to date, has one hundred and sixty-seven years of history. It is difficult to predict today what the brand will become in his hands but it is clear that the designer’s attention will be divided between clothing and accessories, an area in which he distinguished himself in his experience from Bottega Veneta. It affects the bag shaped hot water bottle

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In the Fall/Winter 2023-24 collection, the looks with the maxi print of the equestrian knight logo which has been revised under the new management and which had been showcased in advance on social media and official channels prior to Fashion Week

The new Burberry collection (especially for the accessories component) is dedicated to fur style, anything but a habit in the harsh English winters. The coats and trench coats are enriched with fur collars with an urban spirit

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The new setting of the element immediately catches the eye check that loses the iconic beige background and literally comes flipped and magnified (same operation done for the logo with the knight). L’zoom effect offers results that are aesthetically closer to youth culture

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The need for Lee to understand the British spirit, deeply rooted in Burberry, as a study of contemporary English style is evident. His sphere of reference is the street And children’s clothing. Further back, his territory of study is the style of youth counterculture groups

Although it moves in a completely different area, Lee’s new collection refers to a punk landscape in which Vivienne Westwood he absolutely went to school. Somehow, even Daniel Lee finds a way to pay homage to the designer to whom the entire Fashion Week was dedicated

But the study of the symbols of British culture cannot ignore other elements that recall the imagination of the United Kingdom. In this sense, some also find a place in the collection feathered looks with strong and ultra-fashionable shades

A new one is also in the collection duck print. The duck is also the inspiring motif of one of the most discussed headdresses seen on the show, made in crochet knit

Finally, the english rosesalways alive in Burberry’s symbolic imagery which here explode on light dresses, suits and fur coats in irresistible colors and perfect for the winter season

With a view to a wardrobe to be worn every day, there is no shortage of rose-printed shirts and a new slogan that is already a new object of desire

He is present in the front row at the fashion show Christopher Bailey who was the creative director of Burberry from 2001 to 2018. The designer, who also played a key role in the corporate structure of the brand, laid the foundations for the brand’s success in the new millennium

Other faces from the front row: (from left) businessman Andre Balazs, Edward Enninful (director of Vogue UK) Naomi Campbell and actress Selma Blair

Also guests Jason Statham and Rosie Huntington