Prada’s comfort zone

Nordic minimalism and tailored uniforms for next fall winter for men, ‘there is no room for useless creativity’

There is a geometric spirit that pervades Prada’s fall winter 2023 men’s collection, where Nordic minimalism dialogues with tailored uniforms, in a continuous tension between beauty and utility. A real man, dressed in concrete clothes, because “today there is no room for useless creativity” admits Miuccia Prada backstage, speaking to reporters. In times of crisis, therefore, the two stylists, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, seem to propose an upward leap, devoted to simplification, in a game of reductions and subtractions dictated by the need for purity in the face of the chaos that surrounds us . A fashion that wants to be realistic and concrete.

On the catwalk, the box-shaped lines give way to the ogival motifs of the new-concept duvets, to the adapted bomber jacket that traces circular lines. Suede tunics are matched with long business jackets. The silhouette is totally stripped down, the shapes radical, the collars oversized, as if to highlight the importance of the head. An aerodynamic design, which is reflected in the uniforms that are never aggressive, in the chic workwear, where the new romanticism is made up of duvet bomber jackets and cardigans worn bare-chested.

Fluffy and clumsy, chic with a futuristic 60s taste, which winks at the sci-fi design of ‘Gattaca’, a 1998 film by Andrew Niccol starring Ethan Hawke. “We always talk about reality and, as stylists, we are very attentive to what is happening in the world, to problems and difficulties – underlines Miuccia Prada – this collection is our reaction to a complicated historical moment. We worked honestly to create clothes that are useful for people, that represent our idea of ​​today’s reality. We want to create a fashion with a meaning and a sense, this is the value of fashion today”. Between very long or very short duffel coats and coats furrowed with signal bands, the suede tunics stand out, among the key pieces of the collection.

“We started from the idea of ​​work uniforms – says Raf Simons at the end of the show – not related in any way to forms of aggression or violence. The collection does not speak of minimal but of a certain type of reduction, understood not as something cold and distant but comfortable. We wanted to show an idea of ​​purity also in the scenography, a 60s retrofuturism that is very Prada”. Focus on accessories: from structured shoes to very solid briefcase messenger bags with an aerodynamic design. A fashion that communicates with everyone: from young businessmen with a rebellious air to those who love a more oriental flair. “This collection speaks of archetypal clothes, of well-known paradigms, to then change their silhouette, cut and register – continues Raf Simons -. It also affects Prada’s DNA, since the garments contain fragments of its quintessential and recognizable identity. Yes it deals with unmistakable and significant gestures, which refer to the heritage and history of the brand and its current meaning”.

(by Federica Mochi)