Palazzo Farnese, seat of the French Embassy in Italy, opens its doors to host /gal-le-rì-a/: a site-specific project created by the artist and designer Sylvio Giardina, which winds through the rooms on the noble floor thread of a narrative in which myth and art resonate, understood as an authentic expression of creativity and a know-how that continually reinvents and renews itself
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The performative intervention, conceived on the occasion of the presentation of the Haute Couture SS23 collection, crosses the Sala dell’Ercole Farnese, the Murano Gallery up to the Carracci Gallery, in a dialogue between contemporary art and métiers d’art, which unites the Italy and France. Intervention that also pays homage to some emblematic halls of Palazzo Farnese, symbol of the dialogue between the two countries in Rome
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A free experimenter in the combinations of materials, in geometric constructions, in precious textures, among the innovators of contemporary couture, Sylvio Giardina is not new to forays into art: in this sense, /gal-le-rì-a/ – which marks the tenth anniversary of the brand founded in 2013 – is the culmination of a path of inspirations and reflections on the ridge of the visual, ritual, memory and representation, studded with installation, video and performative interventions such as Crochet de Luneville, Vertigo or Frangiamore
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Embroidery, as a meditative art and metaphor of a writing of destiny that unites life with its mythical dimension, is the procedural element and the medium of an artistic action that sublimates metamorphosis and rebirth of the natural world: two large looms – in the Sala dell’Ercole Farnese and in the Galleria dei Carracci – symbolically open and close the path marked by the incessant work of ten embroiderers
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The wooden frame structures were created by the K_Alma social carpentry workshop, a training and inclusion project for migrants, asylum seekers and people with economic fragility, while the embroiderers are students of the Koefia Academy, excellence in the training of the trades of the High Fashion in Rome
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In the Sala dell’Ercole Farnese it is the golden and austere geometry of Michelangelo’s wooden ceiling, with its interlocking coffers, that guides the expert hands in a story that crystallizes the atmosphere: “The ceiling is reflected in a large frame suspended like a cobweb, where time slows down its pace in that of the gestures of the two embroiderers. Point by point the cosmogonies of the infinite are translated into drops of water…”
“Palazzo Farnese with its perfect proportions, expression of the intellect as the center of the universe in the humanist vision, provokes a reflection on the relationship with nature, a return to that universal dimension in which man is part of the cosmos and the biosphere” , writes Alessio de’Navasques, curator of the project, in the text accompanying the event”
The natural, aerial element, in its impalpable inconstancy, in its continuous changes of state, inspired Sylvio Giardina’s Haute Couture SS23 collection: six symbolic dresses, the narrative heart of the intervention, visible in the Murano Gallery
The colours, from nude to water green and sage green, from ivory to clay and rose quartz evoke reflections, soft blooms, tremors of dew, rarefactions of fog, up to the contrasts between natural white and black, like light and darkness; the fabrics – from gazar, to duchesse, to mikado, to tulle – the most typical of haute couture, here are transformed into sartorial techniques or the inspiration of an unfinished, into sculptural material or delicate glazes – which conceal embroideries and crystals – favoring pleats, folds, raw cuts, layers and sinuous curves
They seem to take shape from the mist, from the transparent layers of the atmosphere, like vaporous impressions, sensations that sprout, like the small plants in the ampoule jewels
The epilogue is in the Galleria dei Carracci, where in the famous frescoes myth, nature, culture and rebirth intertwine in a complex iconographic and iconological programme. Under the vault, where the Triumph of Bacchus and Ariadne is painted, eight embroiderers work on a loom that mirrors the decoration: the reference is to Catullo’s Carme 64, which tells the story of Ariadne in the long digression describing the wedding cloth of Peleus and Thetis
Another narration, artfully written, in which embroidery is the meta-narrative element that gives shape to geometries and frames, with gold threads and fragrant seeds making nature break in to give a new order to things. The event is realized with the support of Archeometra
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Source-tg24.sky.it