Sanremo 2024, from Giorgia in a tailcoat to a statuesque Mahmood: report cards for the second evening look

At the Ariston, black triumphs and a series of catwalk looks is on show, including bleached gloves, minidresses and some eccentric details

There are those who opt (still) for black. Those who arrive with a revisited tailcoat or dare minidress, shoes with sharp teeth, anoraks and bleached gloves. For the second evening of Sanremo 2024 singers and hosts compete in style. It’s a shame that the competition, for many of them, is lost from the start. The most iconic is certainly Giorgia, queen of elegance of the evening. On the Ariston stage the Roman artist celebrates 30 years of ‘E Poi’, with a thrilling interpretation. As well as the look chosen to kick off the evening, total Dior, with which she beats the competition: a mannish-style reinterpretation of the tailcoat worn with shorts, leather cuissardes, waistcoat and white tie. The touch of style? The styling of the hair, lacquered and collected, winks at the divas of the silver screen. The second look is no different: a below-the-knee dress with beaded fringes that instantly makes you a flapper girl. The icing on the cake is the top hat he sported during the medley. Well deserved 10/10 for her.

Also promoted alongside him is Amadeus, sparkling with the required bow tie, ultramarine blue jacket (not Estoril) with sparkling black streaks by Gai Mattiolo. Rating: 6. Fred De Palma doesn’t go wrong with the classic and he knows it: for him total black with see-through embroidered shirt and waistcoat with tail at the back. Elegant with style. Rating: 7. Ghali convinces but with reservations. If for the first evening the singer had won more than a consensus with cardigans and denim covered in all-over crystals, in presenting his colleague he chooses a deconstructed look but which doesn’t seem entirely in his style: open shirt with ‘decomposed’ collar, jacket with the sleeves rolled up, very long oversized bleached gloves, and the standard Tabi on their feet (all strictly Maison Margiela) they still score a 7 and a half.

Renga and Nek play the switch card, literally exchanging the color of the clothes created for them by Maurizio Miri already in the first evening. For the duo little, very little imagination. Rating: 4. Less aggressive than usual but very chic is the La Sad trio, in the ‘Ama’ version with the host’s face reproduced on the back of the tailcoat in a punk version complete with very colorful hair identical to those of the three singers. 7 for originality. There is no hope, however, for Alfa, presented by Mr. Rain. The usual t-shirt with the usual little heart does a lot, perhaps too much, before high school. Rating 3.

Having archived the Coccolino-style teddy bears shown off in the first evening, Dargen D’Amico, introduced by Diodato in Zegna (too black for you, boy), advances with a tad of gas thanks to Moschino’s custom dress: a trompe-effect cool wool suit the oeil which recalls a look of the brand dating back to 1999, with a printed full moon reflecting on the waves of the sea and dedicated, not surprisingly, to the lyrics of the competing song. Creative but without momentum. Rating 6.

Il Volo doesn’t take off despite the sober choice to still dress Emporio Armani. The whole thing is a bit chaotic and without any particular positive notes to report. The safety of the comfort zone is fine but breaking the monotony every now and then would be preferable. Rating 5. “You are beautiful, a snowflake” shouts the network unanimously. And Rose Villain is truly beautiful, in Gcds, a silver minidress with a stiff full skirt and a strapless bodice. The leather pumps with the iconic ‘Morso’ heel and sharp teeth do the rest. Passed with 8. Gazelles with glasses and anorak, what are you up to? Presented by Bnkr44 who wear American football style jerseys. It’s Sanremo, not a second-class American comedy. The whole thing hurts the eyes. Not classified.

She says she is the most rock-punk-grunge in Italy. But on the Sanremo stage the clothes are anything but grunge. Emma (presented by the impeccable French Saints, who return to embody the excellence of Italian tailoring in Dolce&Gabbana, 8 for them), shows off a black dress with very long Maleficent-style sleeves, completed with a snake choker and very long patent leather thigh-high boots by Casadei (the only appreciable touch of style in his look). Rating 5 and a half. Rosa Chemical’s look is strangely clean, as a guest in Piazza Colombo with a pinstripe jacket, dark trousers, unfastened vest and white t-shirt, matching the shoes. Too minimalism for those who have made excess their stylistic signature. Rating 5 and a half.

Do you want to know where fashion will go in the coming months? Look at Mahmood. The boy has talent to spare and he says it loud and clear in the high-waisted flare trousers that cover the maxi platform shoe. Aggressive with charm. The winning detail? The asymmetrical transparent top tied at the arm. All Rick Owens. Chapeau: 10 cum laude for him. His counterpart is Alessandra Amoroso, who goes down the stairs in a very long skirt and a black sequined crop top that highlights her sculpted abdomen. For her 7.

Bigmama instead grabs the microphone in a liturgical version: a black dress draped and lined in red complete with a hood pulled over her head. The nun version of Halloween does not last long and is however torn away by showing leggings that are a harbinger of the inclusive message that the singer from Campania pronounces on stage, addressing the queer community: “Love each other freely, you can do it”. We already love her. Rating 6.

Lesson number one: it’s not enough to wear Armani to get noticed in Sanremo. The Kolors should learn it by heart. (And Angelina Mango too, given that her Etro name doesn’t avoid the terrible jumble of styles and overlaps that the singer displays in an unlikely tulle jumpsuit with hood and brocade corset). What about Stash and his cronies? The classic, monotonous, banal black suit is very boring. Rating: 4.

Class is no water for Fiorella Mannoia, who stands out from all the other artists in the competition by still choosing a white palette like Luisa Spagnoli’s cream-colored tuxedo. For the national Fiorella I vote 8. But is it Geolier or Fabrizio Corona? The cleaned up rapper look with double waistcoat, slicked hair and ‘hawk-like’ mustache are too much I would like but I can’t. Postponed.

Loredana Bertè we don’t argue, we love. Presented by Sangiovanni, the anti-diva par excellence takes to the stage with transparent tights, a white shirt with feathers and a black tie, all Valentino. “I don’t need anyone to forgive me, I do it myself” she says. And we not only forgive her everything but we are crazy about her. Rating: 7+. Everything can be said about Annalisa except that she is not intriguing. Even tonight the singer drops the ace with the garter belt peeking out under the little black dress with a deep neckline by Dolce&Gabbana. Score 7 and a half.

Irama, we’re finally here! Leather trousers and a sheer blouse earn him a passing grade. Rating: 6. For the Ricchi e Poveri version of Barbie and Ken on a trip to Las Vegas, however, there is no hope. Rating: 4. She is the last to perform but Clara excels in elegance, wrapped in a strapless rhinestone bustier dress with exposed navel. The matching scarf makes the ensemble regal. Beautiful, gorgeous. Rating: 9. Black in all its possible variations, one each, from the total leather look to the embroidered shirt by Giuliano Sangiorgi characterizes the Negramaro. Rating: 7.

(Of Federica Mochi)