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The fashion show is a tribute to doubt Schiaparelli which opens the days of Parisian Haute Couture. The inspiration is Dante’s Inferno, according to Daniel Roseberry an allegory of human ambivalence. The choice is between pleasing the audience or impressing yourself. A journey into the dark forest which for the American designer is the perfect metaphor of the torment one feels in front of the drawing pad. That fear, however, is a fundamental spring of the creative process.
And it is precisely by entering the darkness of that wood that Roseberry, abandoning the known techniques, creates something new, shocking.
“When I’m in crisis” writes the designer in the note accompanying the show, “I often console myself thinking of Elsa Schiaparelli: the codes she created, the risks she took, are now history and legend, yet she too must have been uncertain, even frightened, while she conceived them. Her fear fueled her courage, which seems counterintuitive but is central to the artistic process. Worry means you are pushing yourself to do something mind boggling, something new.”
On the catwalk nothing is as it seems, the boundaries between real and unreal are confused in that surrealism of which Elsa Schiaparelli is fully a symbol. Proof of this are the sequins on the dresses made with sheet metal covered in leather; the ultra-worked skirt which is not decorated in fabric, but covered with wooden beads; the iridescent shimmer of column velvet dresses, actually hand-painted with a pigment that changes color depending on perspective, like the wings of a butterfly.
The leopard, the lion and the she-wolf parade: Dantesque lust, pride and avarice, as well as three looks for each of the nine circles of hell.
If Dante taught us how illusory life can be, then this collection serves to remind us of the need to stop from time to time to reconsider our beliefs.
“Hell, Purgatory, Paradise: one cannot exist without the others,” writes Roseberry. “We are reminded that there is no heaven without hell, there is no joy without pain, there is no ecstasy of creation without the torture of doubt. My prayer is always to be reminded, in the most difficult days, when inspiration does not come, that no ascension to heaven is possible without a journey into fire, together with the fear that comes with it. Let me embrace her always.”
The craftsmanship is the absolute protagonist. The manual work of the raw cut of the material jewels that skip the ‘minerality’ and naturalness, the hand painting of the iconic Schiaparelli “Secret” and “Face” bags, in alligator with gold veins.
Chiara Ferragni guest of the fashion show
Among the stars present at the show certainly could not be missing Clare Ferragniwho for some of her Sanremo looks will wear the clothes of the maison owned by Diego Della Valle designed especially for the Festival by Daniel Roseberry.
In an ultra black minidress with pointed cups and golden details, hair gathered with wet-effect waves and strictly Schiaparelli earrings.